Click on any thumbnail to view that stage of construction, or use the "Back" and "Next" buttons to view the process step-by-step.
1. Each home is constructed on a structurally designed, solid steel, welded I-beam frame (not corrugated). The structural steel front I-beam header, along with full outriggers on 14' wide and 16' wide sections, adds extra support in load-bearing areas. Each frame is sealed with a rust-inhibitive black paint.
2. A reinforced polyvinyl bottom board is laid on top of the frame. Next, a blanket of R-11 fiberglass insulation covers the polyvinyl bottom board. The water supply lines are placed within the sub-floor. All electrical cables are also placed within the sub-floor and brought up only where necessary for connections.
3. The typical floor is 2 x 8 transverse construction on 16" centers. The floor system is lag-bolted to the frame. Before the oriented strand board floor decking is glued and nailed to the sub-floor framing, quality control checks are performed. The electrical installation must meet strength, apparatus, continuity, operational and polarity checks.
4. Computer automation calculates every wall dimension, ensuring each cut will be precise. The walls are built in sections, then covered on one side with gypsum board. All wall studs are 16" on center; the exterior walls are 2 x 6 construction, interior walls are crafted with 2 x 4 studs. The marriage wall (where the home is joined together in the center) is a double wall consisting of 2 x 4 studs, leaving you with a sturdy 8" center line wall.
5. After the wall sections are completed they are hoisted into position and nailed and/or bolted to the floor. All electrical cables and plumbing lines are then brought up into place and a series of quality control checks are completed. The interior walls are now closed with the outer layer of gypsum interior panels secured into place.
6. All exterior and marriage wall studs are securely fastened to the floor and to each roof rafter with a solid 26-gauge steel up-lift strap. Beginning within two feet of the front and rear of the home, hurricane tie-down connectors and straps are installed to the floor and between the perimeter floor joist and the outer layer of 3/8" structural sheathing.
7. Because Jacobsen has been building custom homes for over 40 years, we have always had our own in-house cabinet shop. When changes are made to a kitchen or bath, we have the capability to easily change cabinet layouts to adapt. Countertops are available in a wide variety of colors.
8. Between each rigid exterior wall stud a layer of R-19 fiberglass insulation is packed in for maximum energy efficiency. All wall insulation has a paper backing which lays against the interior side of the wall. This method prevents moisture from forming in-between the walls.
9. Next, we wrap the entire perimeter of the home with an exposure 1, 3/8" structural sheathing. Not only does this method add strength to the home, it prevents air filtration, adds protection from windblown debris, provides additional "R"-value to the walls and helps to prevent moisture from penetrating the walls.
10. In the roof cavity we spray a thick cushion of R-30 premium cellulose insulation; this helps in lowering your monthly electric bill. Before the rafters are covered with oriented strand board roof sheathing, a whole-house ventilation system is installed and quality control checks are made on the roof cavity.
11. On the underside of the gypsum ceiling board the joints are taped and sealed, then sprayed with a vapor barrier primer sealer. At this point a decorative knockdown ceiling is applied.
12. The roof trusses are 16" on center. Each rafter is foamed to the half-inch gypsum ceiling boards (sheetrock); this method bonds the gypsum board to the rafters, eliminating the use of unsightly fasteners, and also strengthens the ceiling. Each truss is secured to the aligned wall stud with a 26-gauge steel uplift strap. All trusses located within 3' of the ends of each home roof are doubled to strengthen against uplifting winds.
13. On top of the roof sheathing we start by putting a layer of one-piece asphalt impregnated shingle underlayment; a 12" cement border around the roof secures this layer of underlayment. Then a layer of 15-pound roofing felt is applied, creating a double layer shingle underlayment. Next, we install asphalt fiberglass roof shingles, which come in a variety of colors and carry a 20-year limited warranty. Each shingle is secured into place with six fasteners.
14. In 1999, the State of Florida enacted set-up guidelines that exceed those required by the Federal HUD standards. Each home must be set up by a licensed installer to meet all State and Federal installation building codes. Homes are set on top of piers with a maximum spacing of 8' on center. These piers consist of celled masonry blocks set on top of a pier foundation which may consist of solid concrete precast pads or other materials approved and listed by the department.
15. HUD code manufactured homes are securely anchored with galvanized anchors which are augered into the ground a minimum of 4' deep/ These anchors are located at side walls (a maximum of 5'4" on center), shear walls, end walls, and ridge beam openings.
16. Vertical and diagonal tie-downs are installed on each section of the home to resist uplift and sliding forces caused by the wind. Longitudinal tie-downs are designed to resist horizontal wind loads on the ends of the home. These galvanized steel tie-down straps are attached to the ground anchor heads according to State and Federal installation building codes. Florida requires all anchor equipment to be double galvanized to resist corrosion caused by the elements.
17. You've done your research, you've found the perfect homesite, designed a great floor plan, selected all the right colors...now it is time for you to relax and enjoy your new Jacobsen Home.