What Happens After Manufactured Home Purchase 

Electric Power Supply:

Like all modern dwellings in the United States, the electrical system of a mobile home must comply with applicable sections of the National Electrical Code (NFPA 70, ANSI C-1).  In addition the Federal Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards (HUD Code) have other requirements on the electrical system, which are intended to make your manufactured home safe and durable.

Danger:  Only a qualified electrician should be employed to handle the electrical installation or repairs of ANY home.  Inexperienced persons might very well cause serious or fatal accidents.

The size and rating of wire for electrical service must be in accordance with the National Electrical Code for the ampere rating of the electrical service panel board.

Wiring Systems:

Before moving your home to a community or intended home site, check to see that the electric power supply available meets the requirements of your manufactured home.  Wiring of inadequate capacity can result in low voltage to the home and a drop in efficiency of lights and appliances.  Motors may burn out and you may be paying for electricity that you do not use.

If you add electrical appliances (both major and hand appliances) to your home, be sure your wiring is adequate to provide the appliance with electricity.  The more appliances added, the larger the wiring must be entering the home.

Grounding Systems:

For protection of its occupants, it is vital that the manufactured home (any home) is properly grounded whenever it is connected to any source of electrical power.  The manufactured home has the protection of a "grounding type" wiring system.  Notice the receptacle outlet in the wall has a third hole instead of the conventional two slots.  The third hole is to provide a ground for any device that is plugged into it.  Now, observe the plug on your refrigerator cord, it has a three terminal post instead of the old-fashioned two bladed type.  The rounded terminal is the ground.  This cord also has a third wire from the grounding (rounded) post to the outer shell of your refrigerator.  With this system, if the outer shell of the refrigerator should accidentally become energized, the power would be directed outside of your manufactured home (through the wiring system), instead of hurting someone who touched the energized exterior of the refrigerator.  All major appliances, electrical equipment and metal parts of any manufactured home build by Jacobsen Homes are grounded for this reason: your safety and the safety of your family.

Just as we have three conductors for 115 volt refrigerators on a grounding system, we also have an extra conductor coming into the home to provide 115/230 volt for the entire home.  For that reason four conductors enter the electrical distribution panel board: one conductor serves as the neutral or return (white wire), one serves as the ground (green wire), and two serves as "hot" wires.  With this system the neutrals and grounds must remain isolated from each other throughout the home and out to the source or supply from the branch or utility pole.

It is extremely important that the neutral conductor (white wire), NOT be grounded in or anywhere on the manufactured home or the manufactured home service entrance cabinet.  Grounding through the manufactured home hitch caster or metal stabilizer is not safe.

The only approved method of grounding the home is through an electrically isolated grounding bar located in the electrical distribution panel board.  This bar bonds all non-current carrying metal parts of the manufactured home for grounding to a single point.  Your electrical installer should know the proper method of installation to conform with the National Electrical Code.

Electrical Distribution:

Your manufactured home has another safety factor in its electrical distribution panel.  Your Jacobsen Home contains a non-fuse type of electrical panel, (it contains electrical circuit breakers).  This type of panel protects the manufactured home against overloading of the wiring.  The non-fuse panel has a series of "breakers", which eliminate the need for fuses.  Should a circuit be overloaded or shorted, the breaker automatically breaks the flow of current i the circuit.  The affected breaker may simply be switched back to the "ON" position to restore service after the cause of the short or overload has been corrected.  It is important that the rating of the breaker not exceed the current carrying capacity of the conductor it is protecting, e.g. No. 14 copper wire (the conductor) is rated at 15 amperes.  The breaker for this size of wire must therefore not be rated greater than 15 amperes.  If a circuit continually trips breakers in short periods of time, consult a qualified electrician.  More than likely you have problems with a short or an overloading circuit.

NOTE:  The electric distribution panel board has a main shut-off switch to be used if it is ever necessary to cut off electricity throughout the home.  Every member of your family should know where the main electrical shut-off switch is located before an emergency arises.

GFCI Receptacles:

All exterior receptacles (excluding the heat tape receptacle), all bathroom receptacles, and any receptacle within six feet of any sink or lavatory (excluding receptacles designated for specific appliances), must be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).  This GFCI is a safety device installed to protect the occupants from electrical shock.  If a short or an overload condition occurs on a circuit protected by a GFCI, the GFCI "trips" and disrupts the flow of current through that circuit.  If the GFCI has tripped to the "OFF" position due to a fault in the circuit, the receptacles which it services will not operate.  The reset button on the GFCI will reactivate it.  You should periodically test the operation of each GFCI by pressing the "TEST" button.  When the "TEST" button is depressed, the GFCI should trip to indicate proper operation.  You may press the "RESET" button on the GFCI to restore electricity to the circuit.  If a hand held electrical appliance were to fall into the water, these types of circuits should trip.  However, electrical devices can be extremely dangerous and in the event that an electrical device falls into the water, DO NOT reach into the water to retrieve it, even if it is connected to at GFCI receptacle.  Even with a GFCI receptacle caution should always be observed.  ALWAYS UNPLUG the device before retrieving it from the water.  Always use caution when using and type of electrical device near any water.  NEVER USE ANY TYPE OF ELECTRICAL DEVICE WHEN YOU ARE STANDING  OR SITTING IN WATER.

CAUTION:  Never attempt to do any electrical work of any kind, under any situation, unless you are qualified to do so.  The safety of you and your family could be endangered.